Dated: 01-01-2008

Well I finally found sometime over the holidays to wrap this up. It was a blast. It sits there with a set of bomb proof engine mounts. The transfer case has been clocked. The 4.0 Litre has been stroked to a 4.7 Litre. I have not yet installed a SYE. I did install a 8.8 Ford rear end. Geared this baby to 4.10. Detroit Locker in rear. all my friends that have looked at it say it looks factory. I installed a 1995 Grand Cherokee center console. This also looks stock and is color matched/ New enterior. I installed a second set of temp, amp and oil pressure gauges. I was even able to use the aftermarket Cherokee K&N filter system. If anyone wants pictures, I will be posting them soon. Playing around I did find something funny. The YJ can do a four wheel burn out. My wife came outside and said some not so nice words tho'. My daughters sure loved it. Kinda makes my other YJ seem anemic even tho' I just installed a Howell fuel injection in that one over Christmas. Been a busy and productive few weeks. I was able to send the tail shaft section of the AW-4 to John Nutter. Checkout his website He reclocked it and I used the stock skid pan with four new mounting holes. I have to say it reallllllllllllly looks stock. Cannot wait to get tires and rims for it next. My oldest daughter is already trying to lay claim to driving rights to it? .....NOT..I was even able to modify the XJ transfer case ****er to work on it. I will be installing a True Track Limited Slip in front end in near future. I would definately recommend this swap. It was actually not that difficult. It was a lot better with the pro-fab bomb proof style 1 inch lifted engine mounts. I still have few small minor things to wrap up. But from looking on the forum and bugging people, I was able to get it done. PHATYJ was definate problem solver, with his wiring schematic on a different forum. I also had tons of encouragement from fellow jeepers on all groups. Hal

To answer some questions maybe?

What exactly are you planning? Are you going to swap the entire drive train from a XJ into your CJ7? If so my write up information would be helpful. From what I have been told most everything on a 1987 CJ7 is the same as my 1988 YJ. So take a look mat the attachments and i can kinda spoon feed you from there. I would recommend you track down a 1991 thru 1995 YJ 4.0 Harness. Forget what everyone else is doing. This is the slickest way I have found.If you can find one for a manual or automatic it does not matter. But make dang sure it is complete and unmolested. Also get the computer with it. Then go out and find a trashed XJ. If you can find one that has anti-lock brakes. Not a requirement but helps just a tad bit for one of the plugs. You could go to junk yard and just pick out and cutoff the one plug from the harness leaving about six inches of wire. This is the plug that goes into the anti-lock mechanism itself. This plug will be used later to integrate the new YJ Harness and connect VSS and fuel pump and fuel sending unit. Everyone stresses on this conversion. But once you sit down and actually get going it is so dang straight forward. You can also get away without a SYE. BUT the vibrations at 60 MPH our currently shaking my fillings loose. As far as the dash wiring, I also recommend tracking down a 1991 -1995 YJ Harness and gauges. I like the fact it was basically plug and play with the dash. I also like the fact the speedo and tach worked immediately from the first turning over of the engine. You will need to retain your CJ7 motor mount brackets. This is hopefully you have the straight six in there already. If not a hunting you will go. You will need a mixture of the XJ and CJ engine brackets. I then recommend a new stronger set of bullet proof pro-fab motor mounts. Sadly this was the most time consuming part. Just for doing the swap. remove grille, hood and both front fenders. Makes it real easy to swap. You will also need to slightly tweak the high pressure line on the power steering to get it to properly fit. It looks like it will not tweak but it will. Also what the heck while you have it apart, tear the engine down slightly and put in a new gasket set. Not the head gasket, unless you are anal like myself. Then paint it nice and pretty, so you can detect any leaks in the future. Also closely and I mean closely examine the 4.0 exhaust manifold for cracks. the stock one are notorious for cracking. After all is said and done assemble engine, transmission and transfer case on shop floor. This is three fold. One you can ensure it is slipped together correctly. Also easy as pie to slip in there that way with no alignment issues. Third and most important. You can ensure it is sitting straight in the frame as a unit. You will need to replace the XJ water pump with a YJ pump for a 4.0 of 1991- 1995 vintage. You should be replacing that $40.00 dollars part anytime you swap an engine. The transmission on a AW4 automatic needs to be re-clocked. Don't waste your time custom making or modifying the stock skid pan. The best part about this swap is the fact you can swing the transfer case up out of the way of the rocks. Have John Nutter do the re-clocking. He knows what he is doing. Where do you think the Nutter Bypass came from. He is shy to admit it, but that was his design given away for free. After you install the engine, transmission and transfer as a package. Put the skid pan on a motorcycle lift or equivalent. Line it up with 6 inch long non stock skid pan bolts hanging down loosely. Put grease on the bottom of the transmission mount bolts. There should be four of them hanging down. Press it straight up. Boom you have a mark. Lower it and drill through the skid pan with 3/8 inch bit from transmission side. Then turn over and drill 1/2 inch holes through only the road side of skid pan. Bam recessed transmission mounts nuts. Looks slick and looks stock. The vacuum and fuel lines should be common sense ands easy. You can buy the in-tank fuel pump for anywhere from $100.00 TO $250.00. Research is the tool there. is a good source for these. You can also go with a an external. The only problem I have with these is the have a tendency to freeze up in winter. Before anyone blasts me. That is just my experience when I lived in Oregon. Shifter with auto take your time and measure the center pan and make a blank replacement or buy a blank one and line it all up and cut out the holes. I would next time use a transfer case shifter instead of current configuration.

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